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The following is an ongoing compilation of what has been found to be correct or satisfactory new replacement parts that have been a little more difficult to find than a run-of-the-mill oil filter. Remember to always bring your old part with you as there are some variants. Thank you to all the generous Shay owners who have contributed these valuable informations by forwarding them to me or by posting them on the Discussion Forum.
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TECHNICAL INFORMATION: PART REPLACEMENT
HOME   Ford History   Shay History   Publicity & Articles   Body & Interior   Mechanics & Maintenance   Part Replacement   V.I.N.   Value & Conclusion   Links
Don't forget to look at   Universal Vintage Tires or Coker Tires for 18" tires.

Also, some Model A parts can fit a Shay
(see at bottom of this page) and you can find them at Le Baron Bonney or Mac's Auto Parts and from a few other suppliers which can be found on the Links Page.

As for 1979 to 1986 Ford parts, try this
truly amazing site: http://www.carparts.com/ . First, choose "Ford", then choose the year you think your mechanical components came from (between 1979 and 1985), then click "Continue". Second, choose either "Pinto", "Mustang" or "Fairmount" as the model you think your components came from. After you've been taken to the next page, choose "Replacement".

Napa WebSite:  Another great site to find replacement parts for 1979 to 1986 Fords.
SOCI member Ray Hofmann has compiled the following list of NAPA parts numbers:
   7809 - upper radiator hose
   7296 - lower radiator hose
   36743 - front brake hose, left or right
   36833 - rear brake hose over the rear section
   M6748 - fuel pump
   3293 - fuel filter
   266 - thermostat
   1064ST - thermostat gasket
   408 - spark plugs
   700354 - ignition wire set
   58-12 - water pump
   250014 - timing belt
   7403 - alternator belt
   94055 - front gas shocks (2)
   P27609TC - rear differential gasket
   813 & 1244 - steel brake lines
   HEATER SHUTOFF VALVE installed in heater hose Sears P/N 83-35062

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TOP: As of Fall 2006, Mac's Auto Parts makes tops for Shays!

UPPER RADIATOR HOSE:
DAYCO CURVED #70747, DAYCO FLEX #81051 or GATES #20878 (1980 Ford Pinto application).

Possible alternative: DAYCO CURVED #70960 or #70961 or DAYCO FLEX #81041 (1980 Ford Mustang application).

LOWER RADIATOR HOSE: DAYCO CURVED #70959, DAYCO FLEX #81091 or GATES #21272 (1980 Ford Mustang application).

Possible alternative: DAYCO CURVED #70654 or DAYCO FLEX #81081 (1980 Ford Pinto application).

Note 1: You should always take your old hoses with you to make sure you get the right ones because of all the possible variants.

Note 2: Flex hoses are described as an emergency alternative to molded curved radiator hoses.

5/8 ELBOW WATER PUMP HOSE: DAYCO # 80400.

RADIATOR COOLANT RECOVERY KIT: Ted also put this overflow tank on his Shay and says it works great and that he never needs to add antifreeze. Made by CHAMP, part # 9-1663.

FAN & ALTERNATOR BELT: Without Power Steering: DAYCO #15430.
With Power Steering: DAYCO #15530.

AIR PUMP BELT: Without Air Conditioning: DAYCO #09365.

TIMING BELT: DAYCO #95014.

WIPER BLADES: Owners having had to replace wiper blades report having bought replacement blade ANCO # 20-9. However, they had to adjust the blade arm in almost as far as it will go. This seems to work better than if you just replace the rubber, being not as loose.

WIPER MOTOR: It's not exactly the same but you can find one here: http://www.wire-works.com

HEADLIGHT SWITCH:
NAPA part # HL6617. This is a General Motors part.

HALOGEN BULBS: Tail and cowl lights can be replaced with reproduction Model A units (purchased from Le Baron Bonney, Mac's Auto Parts or Bratton's). Then, if you want brighter bulbs than the standard 12V ones, Ron Clement has found the following halogen units:

Tail Lights: Adaptor kit for '28-'32 that snap in -OR- complete reproduction units can be purchased from Juliano's - Phone (860)872-1932 Fax- (860) 872-4114, or http://www.julianos.com

Cowl Lights: # 1007 dual filament with offset pins. These are small globe bulbs and just fit into the reproduction lamp housings. Purchase from Ron Francis Wire Works - Phone (610) 485-1937 -OR- http://www.wire-works.com .

THROTTLE CABLE: Stock Ford # 1FZ 9A758C which would fit a '71 to '73 Pinto 1600 cc (so recommends the Modern A Assembly Manual). For his part, one owner didn't find the 36 inches long cable he was looking for in the parts inventory of his Ford dealer. He finally took the broken one to a Harley Davidson dealer who was able to rebuilt it. However, read this message from that owner: "After having the Harley guy rebuild the original accelerator cable, I ordered one from GREEN's Obsolete Ford Parts using the parts number on the bulletin board...wrong number!!!...got a short cable that would be in too big a bind to last very long. Still searching for that elusive 30-32 inch cable!" Gary Wood adds: "In the Jockos auto parts catalog on page 794 & they have a "U-CUT-TO-FIT" throttle cables that are 36",either SS Hi-Tech(braided)or black housing. Part # for SS braided is TCI000HT36 & the black housing is # TCI000U36." Here are more links to universal throttle cable sellers:  2 3 4

GAS CAP: STANT #10705 fit an 85 Shay.

TOP BOOT: Le Baron Bonney makes them. Ask for a 1929 boot cover for a Standard Roadster. Herb Lorenz bought one and reported it worked fine. The T-51 type of material would match the Shay's top best.

HOOD LATCHES: The Shay's are 1930-1931 Ford hood latches which have two holes. If you try the 1928-1929 they will not fit because they are fitted with three screw holes instead of two. They are available in chrome or a black painted finish (A-16750 is the part number in most Model A replacement parts catalogs and only the suffix letters will change to indicate chrome or painted finish). Don't order the bolts that are supplied by the Model A parts catalogs because they will not fit (way too short for the Shay body). If you replace the bolts, nuts and lock washers use stainless steel which can be gotten at a hardware store. Bring an old one to the hardware store to match it up.

PEDAL PADS: They are from the 1979 and 1980 Pinto and the Ford Fairmont.

FRONT CALIPERS: Advance Auto parts numbers 18-4070 (left) and 18-4069 (right). 1979 Pinto.

REAR WHEEL CYLINDER: (1960-80 Ford application): WAGNER #F79985 or EIS #EW34958.

WATER PUMP:
AIRTEX #AW4005.

EMERGENCY BRAKE SWITCH: Ford #FAUF-15A851-A.

BRAKE FLEX HOSE GOING TO FRONT CALIPER: RAYBESTOS #BH36743.

BRAKE FLEX HOSE GOING TO DIFFERENTIAL: If you have a "Y" type fitting on the differential-end of your hose, it's a RAYBESTOS #BH36710 from a 1975 to 1980 Ford Granada. If you have a "T" type fitting on the differential-end of your hose, it's a RAYBESTOS #BH36829 from a 1980 +  Ford Fairmount / Mustang.

UNIVERSAL JOINTS: The brand from O'Reilly's is "Precision" part # 369. It has grease fittings.

SHOCK ABSORBERS: These aren't the original parts but they adapt well and seem to give a good ride: Fronts - Monroe HD Gas-Matics #20814  / Rears - Monroe HD Gas-Matics #5803 or #20822gm. Someone else has mentionned Monroe Max-Air #MA-802.

CARPETS: Model A carpets won't fit. This is what Ed Cobble did: My carpet was badly discolored and needed replacing. I carefully removed the kick panel and floorboard carpet, and used it as a pattern for cutting new pieces. I went to a local carpet outlet, and was surprised to find that they had nylon carpet in black. This was carpet intended for use in a house, but it worked fine in "Mabel". It cost about $5 a foot, and was 8' wide. I bought a 6' length, and had plenty left over. After I cut the new carpet, using the old pieces as a pattern, I took the kick panel pieces back to the store and had them put binding around the edges. Cost $1 a foot. Looks great and costed a total of $50.

STEERING COLUMN BEARINGS: The upper is available from Ford Part # F23Z-3517-B and the lower is available from a company that buys Ford discontinued stock at greensalescompany.com Part # D1FZ3517A. What's not available is the rubber sleeve it fits in. Cost less than $30 for both bearings. Bob.

HEATERS: The real thing isn't available anymore. But with a little tinkering, you can surely make one of these fit: http://www.heatercraft.com

FUEL SENDING UNIT (35-240 Ohm type):     Moeller Marine, Part #  035722-10 Fuel sending unit at West Marine.   (Tip from Bob Hillman)

The gas tank, wheels and the
interior heater were made to measure for the Shay. There are no known equivalent replacement.
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The following Model A parts will Adapt to A Shay/Camelot, click on link.
                  
ModelAPartsAdaption.pdf
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        I found a Company that has a lot of Pinto/Shay parts: Auto Krafter, 1-800-228-7346,
      or 
http://www.autokrafters.com   They have a small Pinto parts and accessories catalog.
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Don't forget to go lower on this page in order to see what real Model A parts can fit you Shay in order to dress it up.
PARTS INTERCHANGEABILITY WITH REAL MODEL A PARTS
Radiator logo: After you've drilled out the 2 rivets holding the Shay nameplate, you are left with two small holes flanking a large center hole. A real Model A logo will not cover everything. From a Ford dealership, I bought a stick-on logo that's used on a late-model Escort's trunk ($15). Be sure to get it right the first time because you won't be able to unstick it!
However, the following items can be replaced by nicer parts so as to improve your Shay's appearance:
Crank hole cover: ($5) You have to remove the chrome radiator shell to fit one.
Why not take the opportunity to paint the grill black? It makes a difference.

Hub caps: Real Model A ones with the Ford script just snap in place ($10 each).
You have to rebend the little holding tabs so they have a sharper angle in the
middle, since those caps tend to want to pop off because of wheel vibration.

Headlamps: ($350) This is the most satisfying part of the conversion. You'll have
to use your old Dietz headlight mounting bolts (Model A ones are not long enough)
and flexible stainless steel wire conduits. The Model A headlamps disassemble
completely. You don't have to remove the lone screw in the very back of the shell.
At one point, you'll have to separate the reflector from the shell. It's held in place by
two bent tabs. Be careful not to unbend them too much and break them.

Cowl lamps: Not that easy or cheap, but the result it well worth it. With your cowl lights ($150), you should order Cowl Light Mounting Brackets ($40), new grommets ($3) and a Cowl Light Turn Signal Adapter Kit ($35). Unplug the 3 wires under the dash. Unscrew and take off the "lollypop" lamp from its arm. This arm is glued in place inside the cowl with a strip of  fiberglass mat which you first have to remove, being careful not to damage the cowl. Before pulling the assembly out toward the interior, cut out the grommet. Glue in the new Cowl Light Mounting Brackets with a fiberglass mat. Make sure it settles in the correct angle by test fitting the Cowl Lamp Arm to it and holding it perpendicular to the car's center line untill the fibreglass firms up. Trim a bit out of the back of the grommet because it doesn't spread wide enough to accomodate the thickness of the fiberglass cowl panel. Then you have to glue the grommet to the hole in the cowl. Fit the Cowl Lamp and place a star-shapped lock washer between it and the Mounting Bracket in order to minimize swiveling.

Gas cap: On the cowl, you might have a black or chrome plastic cover over the windshield washer fluid spouts. I made a false gas tank filler neck out of a cut-down paint spray can's cap, on top of which I stuck a real '30-'31 gas cap (the '28-'29 wasn't of a large enough diameter) and I drilled two holes in the back to allow the washer fluid to pass. Incidentally, although incorrect, the '30-'31 gas cap more closely matches the style of the Shay's radiator cap than the '28-'29 can.

Tail lights: Real Model A stainless steel ones almost screw straight onto the brackets ($35 each). To be safer, you should opt for an all red lens instead of an amber & red one because, in the latter case, when you brake, only the amber lens will light up.

Bumper clamps with blue inserts: They just bolt into place ($12 each). Note that they will space the bumper bars about 1/16th of an inch farther apart than the Shay clamp. This means that the back clamps won't grip the bars as completely as they should, requiring perhaps that you change them also. A nice touch would also be to add center bumper clamps.

To see a few other shots of the results of the above suggested trans-Ford-mations, see
Picture Page #9. As for interchangeability of parts between a Shay and Pinto / Mustang / Thunderbird, you can surely ask Tim Lynch of Comfort, Texas (see his Shay on Picture Page #5).
PARTS FOR T-BIRDS
Chuck, from
Regal T-Birds, says that they have been able to help a number of owners with parts, upgrades and accessories for their Shay and Camelot T-BIRDS. Call him at 608-273-4141 or Email him  at chuck@regaltbird.com.
(02-02-03)
NOTE: Weber carb for the Shay.
http://www.allcarbs.com/detail.php?pid=1295&gb=1&ctgn=72&stt=0